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Looking at my reflection, I appear to be wearing oversized gilded pantaloons, perceptible just for my eyes. Children relax in a stone basin acting as mermaids, and nearby rests a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, alongside a imposing stack of bedding. It represents the universe of the beloved author (1805-1875), one of the 19th century’s widely adored storytellers. I find myself in Odense, on the island of Fyn in the southern part of Denmark, to discover the writer's lasting influence in his home town 150 years after his passing, and to find a few magical stories of my own.

The Cultural Center: H.C. Andersen's House

The H.C. Andersen Museum is the city’s cultural center honoring the writer, featuring his original residence. An expert notes that in earlier iterations of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was studied, but Thumbelina were nowhere to be found. For tourists who come to the city in search of storytelling magic, it was not quite enough.

The redevelopment of downtown Odense, rerouting a major road, provided the opportunity to reconsider how the renowned native could be celebrated. A major architecture competition granted the Japanese company the Kengo Kuma team the contract, with the innovative curatorial vision at the center of the structure. The unique wooden museum with interwoven curving spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we move beyond simply describing Andersen, but we talk like Andersen: with humour, irony and viewpoint,” says the expert. Even the gardens embrace this concept: “The outdoor area for strollers and for colossal creatures, it’s designed to make you feel small,” he notes, a challenge achieved by clever planting, manipulating verticality, size and numerous twisting trails in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

The author penned multiple personal accounts and often changed his story. The museum adopts this philosophy seriously; typically the perspectives of his companions or snippets of written messages are presented to subtly challenge the writer's personal account of incidents. “The writer is the storyteller, but he's untrustworthy,” says the expert. The result is a compelling rapid journey of Andersen’s life and creations, thought processes and favorite tales. This is thought-provoking and whimsical, for adults and youngsters, with a extra basement make-believe land, the pretend town, for the children.

Visiting the Town

Back in the real world, the compact town of Odense is picturesque, with cobbled streets and old wooden houses colored in vibrant hues. The Andersen legacy is ubiquitous: the road indicators show the writer with his distinctive characteristic hat, bronze footmarks offer a complimentary Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Every August this dedication reaches its height with the yearly Andersen celebration, which celebrates the author’s legacy through visual arts, dance, theatre and musical performances.

Recently, the seven-day event had numerous performances, the majority were free. During my time in the city, I come across artistic acrobats, fantastical beings and an writer impersonator sharing tales. I listen to empowering poetry and see an remarkable nocturnal display with athletic artists coming down from the municipal structure and suspended from a construction equipment. Upcoming events this year are talks, family art workshops and, broadening the storytelling legacy beyond Andersen, the city’s annual enchantment celebration.

All good magical places need a palace, and the island features numerous historic homes and estates across the island

Biking Adventures

As in other Danish regions, bicycles are the ideal method to travel around in the city and a “bike path” curves through the downtown area. From the local hotel, I cycle to the free harbour-side swimming pool, then out of town for a loop around Stige Ø, a tiny landmass connected by causeway to the larger island. Town dwellers have outdoor meals here in the evening, or enjoy a quiet hour angling, water sports or taking a dip.

In Odense, I visit the themed restaurant, where the menu is based on author-inspired concepts and stories. The verse Denmark, My Native Land is highlighted at the restaurant, and owner the restaurateur reads extracts, translated into English, as he introduces the meal. It’s an experience frequent in my days in the city, the fynbo appreciate narratives and it feels as though sharing tales is continuously on the menu here.

Manor House Visits

Every excellent fairytale destinations require a fortress, and this region boasts numerous historic homes and manor houses throughout the region. Going on excursions from the city, I visit Egeskov Palace, the continent's most intact historic fortress. Although large sections are accessible to the public, this historic site is also the private residence of the aristocratic owners and his partner, Princess Alexandra zu Sayn-Wittgenstein-Berleburg. I contemplate if she would notice a pea through a stack of {mattresses